do something you have never done before
I guess most of you, or at least some, know how it feels like to get out of bed with the thought that today you want to do something you have never done before. Well, it is actually something that I experience quite often and waking up one morning two weeks ago was no different.
That being said, I decided to trek the notorious and sometimes quite scary Pirin Ridge. This is one of the longest and most challenging routs in Bulgaria – some 18 km long and usually takes about 10 hours to complete. I had attempted it twice before in summer and with almost perfect conditions, but both times something got in the way. So, I figured, let’s try in not so perfect, semi-wintery conditions in April … might actually work this time.
let’s trek the Pirin Ridge on Thursday
The Pirin Mountains are beautiful, there is no doubt about that and especially so if you enjoy the view of alpine terrain, but they can also be traitorous, particularly in spring when the likelihood of avalanches is pretty high. However, with temperatures in the upper 20’s C already in February, this year is a little different than usual.
So I picked up the phone, called my Vanya and said, “let’s trek the Pirin Ridge on Thursday.”
Two days later, we woke up early in the morning in Bansko, a popular Bulgarian ski resort town and drove up to Vihren Hut (at 1950 m), some 12 km away from the town center. We arrived there around 8 AM and started our ascent of Mt. Vihren (2914 m high), the highest peak in the Pirin Mountains and second highest in Bulgaria.
gear up
As anticipated, most of the snow had melted, but once we reached an elevation of about 2300 m the landscape began to change, so we had to gear up.
The snow cover we encountered was on huge patches and it was slush, so we had to put on the crampons, else it would have been very difficult and tiresome to move.
I have always considered Pirin to be a dry mountain
Having grown up at the foot of the Rila Mountains, also known as the Mountains of Water, where you pass rivers and streams almost every step you take, I have always considered Pirin to be a dry mountain by comparison. The entire massif is composed of marble and granite rocks, which is one of the main reasons for the lack of rivers and lakes at the highest slopes. If you go hiking in summer, make sure you have at least 2 l of water with you.
There was no absence of water this time around, though.
the Southern approach to Vihren is the easiest
Two hours after we started out our hike from Vihren Hut, we were at the foot of the marmoreal Mt. Vihren, ready to conquer it.
Our approach was from the southern slope of the peak, which is easier and as you can see there was almost no snow left. So once again, we had to take off the crampons.
selfie-time on top
There was no sign of another human being around, although we did have a couple of encounters with mountain goats from afar …
Half an hour later, Vihren was ours alone, as was the entire mountain it seemed, so it was slefie-time … Yes, I know, it’s annoying but there is no stopping this infectious disease.
stick to the ridge in these conditions
The traditional summer trail Vihren – Koncheto Ridge – Yavorov Hut takes you some 100-150 m bellow the ridge, on its Southwestern slope and although it’s rather narrow, it is still a very pleasant path with no extreme ascent and descent. Do not be tempted to take it in these conditions, stick to the ridge, which as you can see is mostly cleared out of any snow … if for some reason you don’t take this advice – be very sure you know how to handle an ice axe, and I do speak from experience.
looks easy and is anything but
Anyway, after a 20 min break to gather our strength and have a sandwich, we were ready to go on.
You could climb Mt. Vihren also from the Northwest – a very scenic route, but more difficult, taking you through a very steep trail, carved into the rocks, and certainly not recommendable this time of year. That was our way down, though, so again – we had to put on the crampons, an exercise we were to repeat numerous times later on in the day.
I know that it doesn’t look that scary on the picture below, but believe me when I say that it was quite a ride … you descend 300 m in elevation for a very short distance. It is a challenging terrain in summer, and in these conditions with some snow cover along the path, it was no different. You really need to be extremely concentrated and careful with every step you take.
that is why you should not take the traditional summer trail
About a fourth of our journey was behind us and already, close to 4 hours had passed.
The rest of the trek was not that different – put on the crampons here, take them off there … time and again.
Btw, you can see what the traditional summer trail looked liked – the poles to the lower right of the picture, which are more than half-way covered in snow. I think it makes it clear why should not be tempted to take that route in these conditions.
better be safe than sorry
I cannot stress it more than I already have, stick to the path on top of the ridge in such snowy conditions! I know it looks a little scary and it takes some nerve to take it, but so long as there are no heavy winds, you will be fine.
Lucky for us, we had picked the perfect day – the sun was shining throughout the entire day and there was almost no wind. And still, better be safe than sorry, so make sure you are secure when you rest on top.
It has been quite a while since I had felt such solitude and peace.
the end is near
So after about another 5 hours of hiking, putting the crampons on and taking them off again, we reached the point where we had to get off the ridge and take the path down to Yavorov Hut. This crossing point of several trails is marked by a big Russian orthodox cross, you can’t miss it.
The end was near – just another 2 hours of descent and losing some 900 m in elevation with no clear path to follow, because most of the blazing poles were either hidden under the snow or gone altogether.
Luckily we had someone waiting for us with a car at Yavorov Hut, where we had dinner. Btw, I can highly recommend the place – it’s cozy and clean and the hosts are very friendly and welcoming.
you should know what you are doing
The end was near – just another 2 hours of descent and losing some 900 m in elevation with no clear path to follow, because most of the blazing poles were either hidden under the snow or gone altogether.
Luckily we had someone waiting for us with a car at Yavorov Hut, where we had dinner. Btw, I can highly recommend the place – it’s cozy and clean and the hosts are very friendly and welcoming.
In retrospect, as I am already tired of writing, I can say the following:
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